Arthritis,  Stories,  Tips

Is chest binding possible with arthritis?

Costochondritis, a condition where the cartilage of the rib cage gets inflamed, is already discussed as a side effect of wearing a chest binder. But what about when you have pre-existing costochondritis and want to chest bind? I’ve tried and failed to find advice for, or even a single mention of, people with arthritis or other chronic illnesses who want to bind their chests. Maybe I just haven’t found the right Reddit post. I haven’t really found a good solution for myself so far, but I can share the frustrations I’ve been through.

Chest binding: A brief introduction

Chest binding is the practice of someone making their chest appear flatter. It’s often done by transgender and nonbinary people, and occasionally by people in theater or looking for a really good costume. There are companies that make commercial chest binders, a lot of which look like undershirts or sports bras, and some people also use sports bras, camis, and layering to achieve a flatter look. (Things like duct tape, plastic wrap, and Ace bandages are not safe to be used as chest binders! There’s a lot to know about binding, so research before starting.) That much pressure on your chest isn’t always healthy for the body; the Wikipedia page for costochondritis even lists chest binding as a possible cause.

However, costochondritis can happen for many other reasons, including injuries, strains, and infections. Arthritis is another big cause of it, whether it be rheumatoid arthritis, spondyloarthritis, or another kind. Costochondritis causes pain with coughing or deep breathing which might be sharp, aching, or feel like pressure. A lot of people end up in the emergency room, because it can feel like a heart attack. For me, even light touches on my sternum can cause pain, and running makes me feel like I’m being stabbed in the chest. Sometimes it hurts to breathe.

Since I value breathing, costochondritis isn’t something that can be ignored for the sake of chest binding.

My attempts to make it work

I haven’t ever tried a commercial chest binder, like those available from gc2b or Underworks. At first, they were too expensive for me to buy, and now, they’re too expensive for me to buy only to discard because of pain. (If anyone with costochondritis has had a wonderful, largely pain-free experience with a commercial chest binder, though, I’m eager to change my mind.) I’ve tried many of the commonly used methods of chest binding short of buying a commercial binder: two sports bras, high support sports bras, camisole folding, and DIY binding.

Two sports bras was probably the first thing I tried. I’ve seen lots of variations of it: two on top of each other, one forwards and one backwards, one folded up on itself and one on normally. The bands always seem to end up on top of each other for me, though, and that’s a problem. The pressure from both the bands is too much for my poor ribs.

Sometimes the pressure from even one sports bra is too much, especially the ones meant for high support. Those kinds of bras work wonders for flattening my chest—just one will do it—but I can only stand them for about an hour. Some days, I can’t even stand a normal, less restrictive sports bra for more than an hour, so sports bras as binders are a no-go for me.

A heavy blue fabric folded over on itself
The stretchy fabric I had left over from an engineering project.

Something I attempted a few months ago was my own (sort-of) chest binder. (Important: DIY binders may not be safe.) I had some thick, stretchy fabric lying around from an engineering project, stretchable in all directions but thick enough to have some strength to it. I cut a long, thin piece, folded it in half, and wrapped it around my chest, covering it with a cami to keep it up. (The first prototype used binder clips to fasten it—there’s something so right about that, it’s wrong.) I wrapped it more loosely than a sports bra would squeeze me, but the thickness of the fabric over my chest meant it flattened it out more than a sports bra would.

Unfortunately, it was hot and made my back muscles hurt, but it didn’t leave marks on my skin or put too much pressure on the lower part of my rib cage since it distributed the weight evenly over the whole band. The material was also soft and comfortable. All in all, I wish I had more clothing design knowledge, because it could probably be improved a lot. (If anyone wants to go into business with me, I’m sure the disability-friendly chest binder industry will be the next hot market.)

Something I’ve seen that may be useful for others with costochondritis uses a cami. The cami is put on backwards and then folded up. My chest is too big for it to work, but it seems like the ultimate low-compression binding option.

Better than nothing?

In general, my go-to options when I want a flatter look have become low-support things like camis and bralettes with no padding. They keep me from showing through my clothes while minimizing my chest profile. This definitely doesn’t result in a completely flat look, though, and it also wouldn’t work for anyone with a larger chest to begin with.

Unfortunately, I haven’t found a better solution for myself, but I want to get it out there that this problem exists. If anyone reading this has come across something that works for them, I would love to hear about it! Maybe one day, there will be an easier answer for chest binding with arthritis.

-Bri

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6 Comments

  • Pierce

    I ended up here looking for chest binders for people with costochronditis. I had the same depressing experiences with sports bras, but never dared buy a commercial binder because excuse me, if I can’t wear a wired bra without nearly vomiting from pain, a commerical binder would NOT work at all. I’m experimenting with some fabrics to see what works, I do have a tiny bit of sewing knowledge. I need something that works for a tropical climate and constant rib pain.

    • Bri

      I feel that. Just thinking about wearing a wired bra makes me wince. I really hope you find something that works! I wouldn’t suggest the fabric I used for a tropical climate, but there should be something out there. Let me know how it goes.

      Now that you’ve reminded me, maybe quarantine is the perfect time to figure out how to stitch well enough to keep it from ripping.

  • Sarah Lee

    Hi! So many larger thoughts I want to share, but the main one is that I struggle with costochondritis as part of the greater inflammation symptoms of psoriatic arthritis. I was having a hard time breathing and not having horrible pain with sports bras and yoga tops and I thought I’d never be able to wear a commercial binder because it would be even worse pain.
    I was wrong – the all over pressure across more of my upper body with a gc2b binder was sooo much better than anything else. It held everything in place and created the physique I was looking for and gave so much support to my achey chest and left ribs. I was on the border of sizing and went to the next size up. I hope this gives for encouragement that we aren’t stuck with bras forever.

  • Frances Reed

    Bri, great article. thank you for bringing attention to this issue. There is so little practical information for people with chronic pain conditions and other disabilities. I am a binding expert trying to fix that with a book coming out next year that discusses costochondritis and autoimmune pain conditions. In the meantime, here is some advice that might help. As Sarah Lee commented, wearing a binder like gc2b might actually be less painful because it has a canvas panel on the front only and spandex on the back so the compression is distributed broadly across your chest and will put more pressure on the ribs further from the attachments to the sternum and thus less direct pressure on the cartilage at the sternum. Most commercially available binders do not have a sports-bra-like band under the chest tissue which can also mean that they cause less pain for you. However, gc2b must be pulled on over your head like a sports bra and if you are not able to have your arms over head and straining to pull a tight garment down onto your body, you might find that you simply can’t get it on. If that’s the case, I would recommend a binder from B.UR.SLF with a side closure so that all the same distributive benefits are there but you clasp a series of hooks under your arm pit which puts less strain on the ribcage. It does require either assistance or some torso twisting. If that’s not going to be possible for your body, then I recommend Origami Customs. All of their binders are custom made to your measurements and needs (and they are passionate about customizing!). They offer multiple fabrics with different degrees of compression, multiple types of closures and even strapless binders if that is the best solution (though they do not provide the best compression). Thank you again for putting this out there for people to see that there is an unmet and invisible need in the binding market. I hope that these suggestions help you to find something that allows you to minimize pain and better express your gender identity. Best, Frances

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